During the semester I spent in Florence, the cultural capital of Europe, I came to appreciate that Catholicism continues to be a steering force in Italian day-to-day life. While the 1947 Constitution ratified Italy as a democratic republic, ostensibly independent of any religious authority, with every citizen granted full freedom of religion, life in Italy—socially, culturally, and politically—is heavily influenced by the country’s deep-seated relationship with the Catholic Church. It is true that Catholicism has less of a direct role with Italians than it once held but, indirectly, the Italian mind today is shaped by the legacy of Catholicism in Italy. No Italian is obliged to be a Catholic, but it is difficult not to think about the religion when it surrounds you left, right, and center.
If you ever get the chance to go to Florence, I am certain you will leave feeling culturally enriched. I have never soaked up so much remarkable art in my life. A key theme that emerged in Florentine art and culture is how religiously-infused it is. Each year 10 million tourists flock to Florence and see a plethora of exhibits depicting the Crucifixion, the Annunciation, the Birth of Jesus Christ, and the Madonna and Child.
Beyond the rich collections hosted at the Uffizi and La Accademia, what most stood out to me were the tabernacles built into street walls, the majority glorifying the Virgin Mary because there is a long-held belief that the Virgin Mary protects the city. I was astonished to find out there are actually 1,200 of these tabernacles scattered across Florence. Popping up on almost every street corner, you really feel the presence of Christianity as you walk around the cobblestone streets.
The lasting influence of Catholicism also appears to underpin the political sphere. Five hundred years ago, the papacy was the most powerful political institution in the world. Though this is not the case anymore and, officially, as the Church and state are separate, the papacy should stay out of politics, but the pope still is featured in all mainstream Italian newspapers on an almost daily basis. The pope is more voiceful about political issues, both domestically and internationally, than I originally anticipated. For example, in the ongoing Israeli-Hamas conflict, Pope Francis made a statement declaring that the conflict had gone "beyond war." Elsewhere, the pope has asked Italian government officials to offermigrants welcome based on integration. With the Holy See on the doorsteps of the Palazzo Chigi, the seat of the Italian government, religious authorities play a distinct role in Italian politics, a feature I have not found to manifest in other European countries.
National holidays in Italy are largely religiously-rooted. The two I experienced during my stay in Florence, on November 1 and December 8, are intended to commemorate religious events of the Church: All Saints Day and the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, respectively. The latter also marks the beginning of Christmas when Italians traditionally decorate their Christmas tree. I attended the lighting of the city Christmas tree and the setting up of the nativity set in the Piazza del Duomo on the eve of December 8, and the event was largely religious. I had never attended an event like this; the piazza was filled to the brim with Florentines and there was a gospel choir that sang Christmas carols and hymns, rather than Christmas pop hits that I am more familiar with. Overall, across the Western world, as Christmas has become increasingly commercialized, it has become less of a holy day. Having said that, it was quite spectacular to see how the city of Florence came together for this festive event, a city-wide event almost entirely underpinned by religion.
The lighting of the Christmas tree event also resonated with me because I think it is a testament of Florence’s thriving civil society. I have found there to be a more harmonious community spirit in Florence on a city-wide level than in other cities I have lived in. La Misericordia is the oldest still-running charity and was founded in Florence; it has been open every day for the last 800 years, never interrupting its mission of evangelical charity and solidarity. While La Misericordia is a religiously-rooted charity, it brings people from all walks of life together and plays an integral role in carrying out public services. I think it is extraordinary that anyone can volunteer to work in the network of services from riding on the ambulance to blood donations to assisting at a food bank, and not only that, but the applaudable fact that most Florentines actually do volunteer for La Misericordia. This religiously-rooted charity welcomes inclusivity rather than exclusivity that sometimes can be associated with religious organizations.
One of my biggest takeaways from my time in Florence was noticing that Catholicism was not a point of division, but a marker of unity that underpins a lot of communal life in Italy.
Anna Kummelstedt (SFS’25) is in the School of Foreign Service majoring in science, technology, and international affairs with a certificate in diplomatic studies. She has Spanish and Swedish roots but considers London her home, having grown up there. With a fascination for the Renaissance that stretches back many years and having taken Italian at Georgetown, during fall 2023 she is studying abroad at the Villa Le Balze on the Tuscan hills surrounding Florence, Italy.
