Embarking on my study abroad journey to Edinburgh, Scotland, I envisioned myself wandering through its enchanting gothic architecture and admiring the cobblestone streets, immersing in what I anticipated to be a seamless blend of my academic pursuits with an aesthetic straight out of a dark academia movie. I chose Edinburgh for its quaintness—a smaller, quieter alternative to the bustling life of London, and partly because I believed life there wouldn't be much of a difference from what I know, choosing to essentially play it safe. As a Muslim, I expected to navigate the next three months with my religious practices quietly tucked into the secular backdrop of Scottish life, unaware of the religious and cultural experiences and community awaiting me.
A group of people with the Scottish flag standing on a muddy, grassy landscape against the backdrop of dark gray clouds.
During my initial days, Edinburgh's religious landscape unfolded in expected ways. The city's historical and cultural markers, like the famous St. Giles' Cathedral, captivated thousands of visitors, including those intrigued by the religious history embedded within its walls. Participating in Guy Fawkes Night, I witnessed dazzling fireworks illuminating the sky while watching from Calton Hill, which is a celebration rooted in historical religious conflict and the resistance of intolerance towards Catholics.
The Nelson Monument on Edinburgh's Calton Hill is a tall, columnar structure commemorating Admiral Horatio Nelson.
Contrary to my expectations of a predominantly secular society with limited Islamic representation, my first encounter with the Edinburgh Central Mosque, a significant Islamic architectural building nestled in the heart of Old Town, marked the beginning of my changing outlook of Edinburgh. The centrality of the mosque, coupled with the accessibility of halal food and other prayer spaces, challenged my assumptions about practicing Islam in Scotland, where Muslims constitute about 1% of the population. Through interactions with the Islamic Society of Edinburgh (ISoc) and non-Muslim friends alike, I found a vibrant community rich in resources, recommendations, and support. Learning that the leader of the Scottish National Party was Muslim further highlighted the prominent role of Muslims in Scottish public life.
Edinburgh Central Mosque, a beige stone building with square kufic calligraphy.
My integration into this community deepened as I explored Muslim-owned halal markets, restaurants, and businesses, guided by the generous insights from ISoc and even my non-Muslim roommates. Their awareness and respect for halal dietary practices, extending beyond the mere avoidance of pork and alcohol, pleasantly surprised me. This inclusive and informed environment encouraged me to embrace my Islamic identity more openly, culminating in my decision to wear the hijab. However, the thought of wearing the hijab for the first time has always filled me with apprehension, so I never imagined that a study abroad trip to Scotland would be the context in which I started to wear the hijab. On the first day, I put my scarf on with shaky hands, yet the reality of Edinburgh's streets welcomed me without prejudice. This act of faith, far from isolating me, unlocked a deeper connection with the Muslim community, transforming my hijab into a symbol of belonging rather than vulnerability. My identity as a Muslim woman, visibly manifested, invited warmth and engagement, debunking my fears and preconceptions.
Palestinian flags and banners with messages of solidarity are hung on the outside a building.
Reflecting on my three months in Edinburgh, the most enduring lesson has been the profound impact of community, regardless of its size. The notion that a mere 1% of the population could foster such a rich, supportive environment was a revelation, illustrating that numbers alone do not dictate the strength or visibility of a community. This experience taught me the value of openness to new experiences, even those that seem daunting due to perceived numerical insignificance. It underscored the importance of looking beyond statistics to the human connections and cultural richness that lie beneath, especially as I witnessed the love and acceptance from non-Muslims who not only tolerated the Muslim community, but embraced and learned about it. Embracing the hijab in a foreign land not only expanded my comfort zone but also enriched my understanding of community, acceptance, and the intricate ways in which religion and culture intertwine in unpredictable ways.
Nouran Alim (C’25) is a junior in the College of Arts and Sciences majoring in chemistry and theology on the pre-med track. She is from northern Virginia and comes from an Egyptian and Sudanese background. Nouran is studying abroad during the fall of 2023 at the University of Edinburgh in Scotland. Nouran is interested in exploring the nuances of culture and religion, with a particular focus on the Muslim community. Her curiosity extends to the intricate dynamics of identity within immigrant communities, where she seeks to illuminate the stories and struggles that shape individual journeys. Outside of classes, Nouran is a tour guide for Blue & Gray, an EMT with Georgetown EMS, and an immersion leader in the Alternative Breaks Program.
